Engine and Transmission Mount Replacement
Posted: Wed Dec 04, 2024 10:24 pm
The engine and transmission mount replacement procedure:
Degree of difficulty: engine mounts 8 or 9, all due to the difficulty of the top engine mount nut. I do not see being able to replace the engine mounts using wheel ramps or jack stands unless you are very strong, motivated, experienced.
Transmission mount 5 difficulty, as long as none of the bolts break!
Engine mount p/n 12361-32020 need two
mount nuts p/n 90179-12083 need four
bolts that hold engine mount to block p/n 90105-10253 need 8 (optional if you need or want to remove them, I left mine alone).
transmission mount p/n 12371-32030 need 1
nuts for trans mount p/n 90119-08770 need 4
transmission mount nuts p/n 90179-08159 need 4
transmssion mount bolts p/n 90105-10023 need 4
In additon, I used Armite LP-250 lead based anti seize on the thread mounts in the hope that any future upper nut removal from the mount would be far easier.
My engine mounts were bad, both had lost at least 8mm of height (1/3 of an inch), trans mount was 4mm shorter than a new mount. It appears the mounts were original to the car.
I would suggest using all new nuts and bolts, FAR easier to work with when replacing parts.
Tools needed: engine mount 17mm stubby box end wrench, 17mm socket. Using an impact gun on the bottom engine mounts makes things far easier.
If you have never replaced a transmission mount on a Toyota check you tube for rear wheel drive Toyota transmission mount replacement videos. There are a total of 12 nuts and bolts to remove, you need to support and be able to jack the transmission up. You could do this on wheel ramps or jack stands.
Procedure: SPRAY PLENTY OF PENETRATING OIL ON NUTS AND BOLTS a day or so before removing. Even with that, the trans mount was original and one bolt broke off and had to be drilled out.
Place wood block under trans, support trans, unbolt the 12 nuts and bolts. Remove bracket and trans mount swap out and put the bracket back in place. Lower trans support. DONE.
Engine mounts: easier side is the left (passenger side).
Is replacing the engine mounts without a lift possible? I would rate it very, very difficult and would not recommend doing so. I would find it impossible to be under jack stands or wheel ramps and use the prybar to leverage against the wrench in order to loosen the top mounting nuts.
Procedure: Remove the plastic undertray and upper engine plastic covers.
Spray upper mount nuts with penetrating oil a day or so before removal.
Remove lower engine mount 17mm bolts (easy).
Left side (passenger side) engine mount procedure: use 17mm box end wrench (does not need to be stubby) and a LONG pry bar. Place box end on upper engine mount nut, use long pry bar to lever the upper mount nut loose. That mount nut is going to be tight and have plenty of road debris. You are going to have a very tedious process removing the nut a 1/8 of a turn using box end. The access room is VERY tight.
Once upper and lower nuts are loose place a wood block under oil pan and use a jack to jack the engine up. If you place the lift point too far to the outside it angles the engine too much and you can't remove the mount. Adjust your engine lift point so you can remove mount.
You may need to use pry bar to knock the engine mount loose.
Swap in new passenger (left side) mount. Tighten upper mounting nut. Leave LOWER mounting nut loose for now.
Left side is now done.
Right side (driver's) engine mount removal procedure:
This is a VERY difficult engine mount to remove!
The mount comes out towards the front of the car and you must remove the oil filter to access and remove this mount. Space is very tight.
In order to access the upper mount nut you must use a 17mm stubby box end wrench and the long pry bar and use the lower front subframe as the pry bar pivot point.
Remove the 6mm retaining nut that holds the lower wiring harness in place so you can place the long pry bar behind the harness.
You don't want to be leveraging on the wiring!
Place stubby 17mm wrench on top nut, use pry bar to leverage the wrench forward to loosen. It breaks loose but once again is VERY tedious to remove with such a small wrench throw.
Once upper and lower mount nuts are removed, use the engine jack and a wooden block to jack the engine up.
I would advise keeping the opposite side, lower engine mount retaining nut loose so you can jack the engine up a but more.
You may need to experiment with where you place the wood block jacking point, too far to the outside and the engine is twisted making mount removal impossible. Try jacking the engine from a more central point and lift it vertically.
You may need to use the pry bar to break the mount free from the upper and lower mounts (if necessary, my mount was stuck) remove mount toward front of car, swap mount.
Lower engine back down, tighten all bolts up.
Replace the oil filter, check oil, drive car.
DONE.
Degree of difficulty: engine mounts 8 or 9, all due to the difficulty of the top engine mount nut. I do not see being able to replace the engine mounts using wheel ramps or jack stands unless you are very strong, motivated, experienced.
Transmission mount 5 difficulty, as long as none of the bolts break!
Engine mount p/n 12361-32020 need two
mount nuts p/n 90179-12083 need four
bolts that hold engine mount to block p/n 90105-10253 need 8 (optional if you need or want to remove them, I left mine alone).
transmission mount p/n 12371-32030 need 1
nuts for trans mount p/n 90119-08770 need 4
transmission mount nuts p/n 90179-08159 need 4
transmssion mount bolts p/n 90105-10023 need 4
In additon, I used Armite LP-250 lead based anti seize on the thread mounts in the hope that any future upper nut removal from the mount would be far easier.
My engine mounts were bad, both had lost at least 8mm of height (1/3 of an inch), trans mount was 4mm shorter than a new mount. It appears the mounts were original to the car.
I would suggest using all new nuts and bolts, FAR easier to work with when replacing parts.
Tools needed: engine mount 17mm stubby box end wrench, 17mm socket. Using an impact gun on the bottom engine mounts makes things far easier.
If you have never replaced a transmission mount on a Toyota check you tube for rear wheel drive Toyota transmission mount replacement videos. There are a total of 12 nuts and bolts to remove, you need to support and be able to jack the transmission up. You could do this on wheel ramps or jack stands.
Procedure: SPRAY PLENTY OF PENETRATING OIL ON NUTS AND BOLTS a day or so before removing. Even with that, the trans mount was original and one bolt broke off and had to be drilled out.
Place wood block under trans, support trans, unbolt the 12 nuts and bolts. Remove bracket and trans mount swap out and put the bracket back in place. Lower trans support. DONE.
Engine mounts: easier side is the left (passenger side).
Is replacing the engine mounts without a lift possible? I would rate it very, very difficult and would not recommend doing so. I would find it impossible to be under jack stands or wheel ramps and use the prybar to leverage against the wrench in order to loosen the top mounting nuts.
Procedure: Remove the plastic undertray and upper engine plastic covers.
Spray upper mount nuts with penetrating oil a day or so before removal.
Remove lower engine mount 17mm bolts (easy).
Left side (passenger side) engine mount procedure: use 17mm box end wrench (does not need to be stubby) and a LONG pry bar. Place box end on upper engine mount nut, use long pry bar to lever the upper mount nut loose. That mount nut is going to be tight and have plenty of road debris. You are going to have a very tedious process removing the nut a 1/8 of a turn using box end. The access room is VERY tight.
Once upper and lower nuts are loose place a wood block under oil pan and use a jack to jack the engine up. If you place the lift point too far to the outside it angles the engine too much and you can't remove the mount. Adjust your engine lift point so you can remove mount.
You may need to use pry bar to knock the engine mount loose.
Swap in new passenger (left side) mount. Tighten upper mounting nut. Leave LOWER mounting nut loose for now.
Left side is now done.
Right side (driver's) engine mount removal procedure:
This is a VERY difficult engine mount to remove!
The mount comes out towards the front of the car and you must remove the oil filter to access and remove this mount. Space is very tight.
In order to access the upper mount nut you must use a 17mm stubby box end wrench and the long pry bar and use the lower front subframe as the pry bar pivot point.
Remove the 6mm retaining nut that holds the lower wiring harness in place so you can place the long pry bar behind the harness.
You don't want to be leveraging on the wiring!
Place stubby 17mm wrench on top nut, use pry bar to leverage the wrench forward to loosen. It breaks loose but once again is VERY tedious to remove with such a small wrench throw.
Once upper and lower mount nuts are removed, use the engine jack and a wooden block to jack the engine up.
I would advise keeping the opposite side, lower engine mount retaining nut loose so you can jack the engine up a but more.
You may need to experiment with where you place the wood block jacking point, too far to the outside and the engine is twisted making mount removal impossible. Try jacking the engine from a more central point and lift it vertically.
You may need to use the pry bar to break the mount free from the upper and lower mounts (if necessary, my mount was stuck) remove mount toward front of car, swap mount.
Lower engine back down, tighten all bolts up.
Replace the oil filter, check oil, drive car.
DONE.